Matt Spenceley Interview

YOU’VE BEEN FOCUSED ON THE NEW MIXED SCENE FOR THE LAST YEAR, WHY?

I’ve always been into winter climbing - particularly mixed. I grew up in Scotland so it was pretty natural to head to the hills in winter. I spent a couple of seasons living in a car at the base of Cairn Gorm - I’m pretty keen! I’ve also spent quite a bit of time trying to climb mixed things in the Alps and particularly Greenland. I discovered leashless mixed a couple of years ago. There is a real buzz to the scene abroad. The sport’s still really young, so the limits, or lack of them, are only starting to be uncovered. I learn something new everyday. It’s really exciting to be involved in something like that.

YOUR SUMMER HAS BEEN SPENT TRAINING WITH TOOLS IN PREPERATION FOR THE WINTER, FEW CLIMBERS HAVE THIS DRIVE, WHAT ARE YOUR GOALS?

I’m spending this winter between Europe, Russia & Canada. I really want to get on all the awesome-looking M-graded lines that have appeared in the last few years. The Ice World Cup also looks really exciting. I’m going to do the series. In April I’ve got plans to head to something remote and steep in Greenland.

LAST WINTER YOU SPENT MORE TIME IN EUROPE (COGNE ETC..). HOW DID THAT GO?

A friend and I dragged a battered Ford down to Italy. At first we seemed to be getting somewhere on some really steep lines that had just been established, but we quickly became very run down. At the time, it seemed perectly natural to sleep in a car at the base of the crag. We’d wake up every morning with a thick coating of hoar frost over everything. It took me weeks to recover from that trip! It was hard work but I learnt a lot about what’s needed to climb such steep routes. I also met up with Ezio Marlier, a brilliant mixed climber and guide who taught me a lot about the game.

HOW MUCH STRONGER DO YOU FEEL THIS WINTER?

A lot! With that experience in Italy , I’ve been able to really specifically train for what is involved.

DO YOU FEEL YOUR TECHNICAL ABILITY HAS IMPROVED? NEW MOVES AND WAYS OF USING THE EQUIPMENT HAVE EVOLVED OVER THE LAST YEAR. HOW SIGNIFICANT ARE THESE?

I’ve really focused on technicality this year. It’s one thing yarding between positive pockets and another doing big moves between thin side pulls. The climbing can be so delicate and powerful at the same time. the new techniques and creative use of axes that have recently been discovered radically change the game. it’s possible to make gigantic moves and also get good rests in what would have been outrageous situations. Leashless was originally introduced in comps to make them harder. With good heel spurs and axes, that issue has been blurred. It may be harder to hang on, but there is a lot more possibility for rests and the climbing is easier. To me the leashless game is less a question of ethics and more one of style. It’s such an efficient and cool way to climb. You need to be able to do all of this stuff so that you are fit enough to climb the hard bits! Standards are going to go off the scale as these techniques are fully realised.

THE TOOLS OF THE TRADE ARE RADICALLY DIFFERENT NOW. WHAT WERE YOU USING TWO WINTERS AGO, AND NOW?

A couple of seasons ago I was given some Machines. I had seen a picture of Stevie Haston using these ’radically’ bent tools and thought they looked space-aged! I now use custom built Grivel competition axes that have a big ergonomic handle that I can even fit my leg into. The difference between the two puts some perspective on the development of the sport in the last few years.

YOU HAVE RECENTLY SECURED SOME SPONSORSHIP. WHAT DIFFERENCE DO YOU FEEL IT WILL MAKE?

In terms of axes and boot/crampon hybrids , a lot of the kit isn’t available to buy, so getting some prototype stuff makes a hugh difference. It woudn’t be possible to climb the routes I’m after with the stuff currently available in the shops. Less time crashing in my van and more in sponsors’ warm chalets may also help!

WHAT IS YOUR TRAINING SCHEDULE? WHERE DO YOU TRAIN? ARE YOU CONCENTRATING ON ANY SPECIFIC AREAS?

I train and live with a small group of similarly-minded people in the Peak District. We’ve got a wal at home but have just built another, far bigger facility with loads of differant wall angles. I break my years training down into specific phases, focusing on a different element in each. There’s no better training than actually climbing. I also train on a campus board, with weights and do body tension sessions. As I’ve learned more about myself my schedule has become less rigid and more intuitive, changing focus to whatever I feel I need a top-up on. As well as training at home, I also spend a lot of time in the Pleasure Dome. We lived on the beach for a couple of weeks last summer, climbing til we couldn’t hang on then sleeping by the fire! The steep juggy climbing is good for developing dynamic power - it’s also cool to wear crampons on the beach!

DOES YOUR INTEREST IN MODERN MIXED CLIMBING LIE SOLELY WITH BOLT-PROTECTED DESPERATES OR DO YOU INTEND TO TAKE THESE SKILLS INTO THE MOUNTAINS LIKE SEAN ISAAC ET AL?

I’m totally psyched on the hardest bolted lines but can’t forget the big faces I’ve seen in Greenland. Isaac has talked of the possibilities in the mountains opened to the fittest mixed climbers. A2 and A3 peg cracks would be like fist cracks to picks. With the ability to climb the steepest faces, in less than perfect weather and conditions, the possibilities are scary. Bubu has already headed to Cerro Torre without leashes. Chris Cubitt and I are currently looking at freeing an Arctic winter big wall with our new kit. It’s ambitious but the line is incredible. This style of climbing, applied to the big mountains, hasn’t really been tried before - we’ll have to see how we get on. (NB: Sean Isaac is a leading player in the world of mixed climbing, a resident of Canmore in the Canadian Rockies and author of the Mixed Climbing guide book for the area.).

WHERE DO YOU SEE SCOTTISH MIXED AT THE MOMENT? WHERE IS IT GOING?

A lot of people compare Scottish mixed to new wave mixed standards. It doesn’t really work. Standards aren’t comparable between trad and bolted rock. Of course bolted mixed is technically way harder, but conditions couldn’t be more different. To me, Scottish mixed is about intense, on-sight trad ascents. It’s rare to climb anywhere else in atrocious conditions. The scene seems to be healthy, with a lot of people passionate about the subject. The amazing amount of bitching that goes on is not so healthy though. As for the future , I guess the scene will diversify. There’s room for more routes like Logical Progression, and headpointing may well get acknowledged more. I still think that on-sight trad is where it’s at. From my perspective, it would be exciting to apply fitness gained elsewhere back to ever steeper crack lines. There’s also a lot further to push on the sketchy, run-out slabs front. As for leashless, the hardest technical routes won’t be possible anyway but.

DO YOU HAVE ANY OPINIONS ON DRY TOOLING IN VENUES SUCH AS NEWTYLE QUARRY?

Old choss heaps have always been used discreetly to train for the return of the cold. The practice has been kept pretty quiet - until recently. It’s dead important not to head out with your tools to the nearest crag. Mixed climbing is a cold weather sport but training is useful. The least controversial place to head is an indoor board. The chalk around Brighton is also awesome.

WHO ARE YOUR ROLE MODELS, INSPIRATION OR HEROES?

I don’t really have heroes but people like Babu and Sean Isaac really inspire me in the way they’re taking climbing. Both are pushing on the technical front and taking their skills to the mountains with open minds. On a day-to-day level, my friends and climbing partners keep me fired and teach me some important lessons.

HOW RELEVANT DO YOU SEE THE ICE CLIMBING COMPS TO REAL CLIMBING, OR IS IT THEIR WORTH IN THE NEW INNOVATIONS TO EQUIPMENT AND TRAINING THAT ARE RE-INVESTED INTO THE NATURAL ARENA?

Some of the moves, like climbing between spinning blocks of ice, may not have huge relevence, but the skills gained across the board must have huge crossover to outside. I think the biggest knock-on from competitions is the introduction to mixed of so many really fit climbers. With such a big group of psyched climbers training and pushing hard, mixed has been and will continue to be, revolutionised. Look at the jump in standards since the comps started - M12 - and that’s only the beginning. Linked with developments in equipment, mixed climbing’s got a really bright and exciting future.

JUST BEFORE GOING TO PRESS MATT SENT US AN EXCITED UPDATE ON HIS ACTIVITIES ABROAD:

"Biggest, best thing, is probably that I’ve just decided to move out here (Switzerland) to concentrate on new routes, then rock climbing in summer (and a beautiful woman), it’s fecking awesome!" Matt is sponsored by Scarpa, Grivel & Peglers.