Peglers Ice Fest 2  2012

by Dave Pegler 

No snow had fallen for two weeks so we were anticipating once more, safe access to some what can be avalanche prone valleys. To our dismay the drive up to La grave and the Col du Lautaret revealed six inches of fresh snowfall. Dropping down the east side of the Col towards Briancon we were releaved that absolutely no snow had fallen. A quirk of mountain micro climate’s.

The week was to be blessed with stable weather, with no snow falling until we drove home after a great week. The temperatures hovered a few degrees above and below zero. Perfect freeze-thaw conditions and most venues had routes in good conditions, though temperatures rose as the week went on, and by the end some south facing lines were coming down and certainly avoided.

The Vallee du  Fournel was the target of first day, with teams on the classic ‘Davidoff’ (II/5) , Les Nains des Ravines’ (IV/4) and I was pleased to climb ‘Beating the Retreat’ (IV/4+) and with a few additional pitches above the usual finish gave about 1500 foot of climbing, and resulted in a descent by headtorch abseiling from V threads.

The week progressed with more routes in Fournel including the impressive ‘Calins Solene’ (II/5+) in stiff conditions and in the adjacent valley of Freissinieres the moderate classic of ‘Fracastorus’ (III/3+) with a steep and interesting finish. Harder Pillars and Mixed lines in the sector Couennes were saved for the end of the week for some.

A trip to this area is not complete without visiting Ceillac with it’s friendly routes minutes from the car. For some the ‘Y’ gullies of ‘Holiday on Ice’ and ‘Le Y’ and the glassy and classy ‘Easy Rider’ which are as good a bunch of grade 3’s as you’ll find anywhere, were the drawer. Others made a beeline for ‘Sombre Heros’ another local classic grade 5.

A link up of ‘Les Formes du Chaos’, ‘Sombre Heros’, ‘Holiday on Ice’, ‘Le Y’ and ‘Easy Rider’ gave 3000 foot of climbing… in a day! No doubt this challenge will be an Ice Fest classic.

This year Cervieres was not in good condition but still offered some testing lines, and an approach that favoured skis, but as some were training for an upcoming trip to Denali it might be that wading through deep snow was just what the doctor ordered.

A drive of 40 minutes, a little beyond Ceillac to another ski resort, Les Orres, which offers a 20 minute approach an a few great routes. We climbed the sister lines of ‘Clara’ (II/4+) and ‘Nadia’ (II/4+) are beautiful, one of pure ice, the 2nd with a mixed section and both 600 foot long.

Jerry Gore entertained us one evening with an inspiring illustrated talk focused on his recent ‘Ecrins XS Challenge’, showing just what a whirlwind of energy and talent he is, even with Diabetes.

It was a great week spent in good company and we climbed many quality routes. I already have plans forming in my head for next year……. 

Many thanks for those on the fest for making it what it was. Without you there is no fest ! 

Previous Ice Fest

Ice Fest 2011 Vallouise, France by Dave Pegler

In contrast to Richards Icefest in the middle of January, the intervening week saw the weather pattern stabilise, temperatures dropping and the sky clearing. This was to remain until the end of my Icefest. The draw to returning to this area for the last 4 years is the abundant climbing available in the Fournel valley in particular, which has previously been ‘off limits’ due to the high avalanche hazard. This isn’t a problem as in such conditions areas such as Ceillac, Les Orres and some parts of the Freissinieres valley have yielded more than enough routes.

It was about 20 years ago that I last climbed in Fournel and I had done and seen enough of it’s potential to be drawn back to climb more. Most of us took full advantage of the easy and fast access on well worn approaches to climb both long and short routes in the Fournel valley most days. Closest to the parking area, the classic 1000ft grade 4 ‘les nains des ravines’ is just 15 minutes walk from the car. I’ve always felt the walk-in is an intrinsic and important element of a days ice climbing, allowing your body to generate some warmth before the stop-start of the days climbing. Also, afterwards to make the transition with your partner from what can be an intensely involved and emotional day of climbing towards the normality of the evening with it’s laughter, food and drink.

Further into the valley, routes such as ‘capitaine courageux’, ‘sexy gully’, ‘beating the retreat’, ‘mais je reve’, ‘sourire kabile’ and ‘nouilles york’ were enjoyed safely and gave a lovely variety of climbing from 6” wide ribbons of ice to massive flows. During the week we also managed to climb in the ultra reliable Ceillac area where I was pleased to climb ‘L’Arlesienne’, a route I’d not climbed previously despite so many visits to Ceillac over the years. Another venue we visited, on the first day, was Cervieres where I’d not climbed for many years and Simon and Jez took the opportunity to climb the beautiful 100ft pillar of ‘le tube’ finding it in unusually amenable condition. They had already spent a few days in Cogne, Italy (a venue of several Ice fests) and were climbing well. We all took the opportunity to let our bodies and minds get used to the act of ice climbing more gently on some of the numerous easier lines.

The group all enjoyed climbing routes at levels we were happy with, personal grades were pushed and much beer, wine and food was consumed. For some it had been a first foray into continental ice fall climbing, others could remember wooden shafted axes ! I’m looking forward to next years ice fest, whatever the conditions and climbing some great routes in great company.

It’s time to concentrate on rock now……