Ice Fest 2012

This year I headed down to the Ecrin a few days early with some mates to check out the conditions and get a few routes under my belt before the official fest began. On arrival we were faced with somewhat 'mixed' conditions, heavy snowfall and very strong winds. The ice in the valley was almost there but really needed a proper cold spell to 'fatten' up nicely. Unfortunately we were in the middle of a very mild spell. After a day up at Alp d Huez we headed for La Grave. On route in Chris's talismanic Land Rover Discovery we passed Ben and Tom at the side of the road who asked us to follow them to the local garage as Ben was convinced he needed a new alternator. He was right and leaving his car at the Citroen garage we all piled into the Disco and decided on a classic five pitch grade 3 (Mauvais Annees) Heavy snow was now falling during our knee deep post hole through the forrest to the start of the ice. The shallower lower pitches were covered in snow but were quickly dispatched to reveal two much steeper ice pitches above. By now the snow had turned to heavy rain and my comment at the breakfast table "today I shall mostly be wearing HARD shell" was coming back to haunt some of the guys who failed to pick up the subtle hint!. Learning the hard way that softshell and down just doesn't cut it in those conditions. A long drive back in worsening weather and road conditions saw us back at the gite very cold and very wet. Half an hour later there was a powercut which lasted nearly 24 hours and meant drying out our sodden kit was an impossibility.

What we really desperately needed was a really cold settled spell for the next few days to reform all the routes that were affected by the rainfall. Luckily this is exactly what happened and this meant that as well as the excellent and always reliable Alp d Huez at which all the lines were climbed during the week, mostly in glorious sunshine, the classic routes at Mallaval, Moulin and Caturgeas and La Grave, Le pylon and Colre du Ciel all came back into good condition in the middle of the week so good sport was had at these two venues. 

An early reconnaissance mission to the Valon du Diable by Chris, Ben and Tom during which many snow pits were dug proved our fears correct that after such heavy snowfall and mild conditions sadly another year passed without any climbing being done in this most enchanting and fearsome valley.

Of course with all the snow we had the week before all those with any ski or snowboarding aspirations were very happy indeed as the conditions were pretty much perfect.

All in all another great trip and everyone from the fest veterans to the first timers had a great time and did some great climbs not to mention the highly competitive quiz which was as hard fought as ever.Can it really be another year until the next one?

Ice Fest 2011

For the first time in five years we decided to drive down to the fest thanks to an offer from my old friend Chris. Our foursome (my wife Lynne, Chris and myself was made up by our good friend Tony. We all met up and settled in for an overnight drive to the Ecrin. I always like to get out before any one else so that i can suss out the weather and get the shopping in. The drive passed by uneventfully with Chris and me taking turns at the wheel. And Lynne and Tony asleep for the most of the journey! On arrival at the gite at eight o clock in the morning  I was amazed by how dry and warm it was. The snow level was higher than I had ever seen it and it was about ten degrees! This seemed completely at odds with the early winter when we were ice climbing in north Wales in minus ten degrees in perfect waterfall ice.

I knew the area and most of the alpine ice venues had been very cold over Christmas and New Year. But it had got a lot milder with a warm week forecast as well. Still knowing the area well we were not to worried and set about unpacking, shopping and settling in. Then a drive up the valley to La Grave to see what the conditions were like there. On the drive you could see that it had obviously been very cold earlier during the year. As there was so much ice around although a lot of it was rotting out. With binoculars at hand we could see that all the classic routes at La Grave were in good condition. So we decided to head there the following day. Everyone arrived safely that evening and it was lovely to be back in the dining room with so many old friend again as we all tucked in to large helpings of spaghetti and meatballs, garlic bread and the obligatory few glasses of wine. Slightly disheartened by the now drizzle falling as we arrived at the car park at La Grave it was good to catch up with some familiar old faces in John and Paul who were staying at the geet at La Grave and who had already been out for the several days. Much useful information was ex changed. They also told us that the ever reliable ice up at Alpe D’ Huez was in mint condition condition which was good news. We had a great first day climbing a classic easy route at La move an a. Which starts easy but gradually gets steeper the higher up you go. Ideal for getting back into the zone. Most of the other routes at La Grave including, Le Pylône, Croupe de la Poufiasse, La Nuit sera fraȊche and La Colère Du Ciel were climbed during the week. And everyones comments were the same, absolutely bomber plastic ice. One advantage of climbing ice during warmer temperatures is the first time placements. In fact i think it was on the first day before i had to make more than one swing. As promised the ice up at AlpD’ Huez was in good condition and there was a great contrast to the routes up there between early morning (lets face it mid morning!) and later on in the afternoon when the sun has been on them for a couple of hours. It is a lovely place to climb and a real treat to be up in the sunshine considering most ice climbs are conducted in dark cold valleys. Symphonie, Ice Bille, Stalactus, Supercramp, La Grotte and the Misère were all climbed.

Another route that was well visited during the week was happy birthday up at Villard Notre Dame. For those not familiar with the area it involves one of the most terrifying drives up a road cut into the side of a mountain that I have ever been on. The day we climbed it we had quite heavy snow fall whilst on the route. So we were extremely grateful to Chris and his Discovery for our drive back down to the valley. All in all dispite the worries about the conditions at the start of the week the 2011 ice fest was a great success with once again a nice mix of old and new festers. Roll on January 2012. The long drive back home flew by as we talked excitedly about what we had done, new friend made and discussed plans for the rest of the years climbing. As we departed the shuttle into England a funny thing happened. Absolute silence, for about half an hour no one spoke. We were all now thinking of home, jobs, wifes, children, in short reality. After a couple of days I got a text, it read “I don’t like reality, I like the Ice Fest!”